tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9395640164208808862024-03-13T00:57:28.968-07:00Richard and Mary walk lotsRichard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-23541651106500390012017-12-04T19:27:00.001-08:002017-12-04T19:33:38.293-08:00Southlands to Dunedin, Otago Peninsula<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For our last night at Owaka, we book a table again at Lumberjacks Restaurant. It doesn't fail us and I succumb to Blue Cod with duck fat roasted potatoes, and Rich to slow-cooked beef cheeks that have simmered for over 5 hours to create its delicious flavour. If only Bridgetown offered this sort of dining at such reasonable prices. We can do better.</div>
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We farewell the tuis who've been drinking copiously from the jug of (mildly) sugary water that we leave on a pole for them. There may well be a paucity of fresh water because it's been so dry.<br />
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We spot an odd sight along the road. Some Kiwi farmer has asked Santa to sit and fish his hill - clear case of mistaken location!<br />
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Our first stop as we head towards Dunedin is Sod Cottage, a short distance beyond Balclutha. It is a mud-rendered cottage, just one room, and used in the 19th century by early settlers. Finances prohibit further renovations and the mud is peeling off the side wall. It is operated by the Catlins Historical Society, open 24/7 and is a lovely little cottage on a very busy road.</div>
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The GPS guides us through Dunedin to the Otago Peninsula and we negotiate carefully the narrow, coast-hugging road to our next Airbnb accommodation (Cedar Loft, Broad Bay).<br />
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We are not disappointed with this loft - it is a compact unit with everything carefully thought out. I don't intend to ruin my holiday cooking, so the lack of a proper kitchen isn't an issue.<br />
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We have three days here in Dunedin and spend time at Larnach Castle, view the flypass of Royal Albatrosses and snoop about the secondhand book shops for more essential reading.<br />
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Dunedin Railway Station</div>
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Views of Larnach Castle, built between 1869 and 1890. <br />
Now owned by the Barker family and still needs further renovations, but most of the rooms have been beautifully restored along with appropriate furniture.</div>
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Two views of the bathroom. The bath is solid marble. </div>
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Note the lead-covered drain below the two sinks.</div>
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The butter room, where various butter/cheese making machines are kept.</div>
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The Royal Albatross have recently returned to lay eggs and we can see four from the lookout. This is the only land-based colony in NZ. As we watch, a juvenile flies past but is too fast to capture properly. When we leave, we are buzzed by (maybe) the same albatross as he/she views a good landing spot. These birds generally spend at least 5 years at sea before coming back to mate. It's no wonder they have a crash landing when they first hit landfall.<br />
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My boots capture seagull poo - it reminds me of the penguin colonies on Antarctica and I wash the boots as soon as I can. I can't see Customs officials being happy with smelly boots!<br />
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It's been an interestingly varied holiday, but the highlight for me was the Routeburn Track, which surpassed all my expectations. Now to plan the next holiday walking in the German Bavarian Forest National Park.<br />
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<br />Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-76590304970965237242017-12-01T12:42:00.000-08:002017-12-01T12:42:04.789-08:00The Catlins, Southlands, 29 Nov to 3 December<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Catlins is an old area of South Island that is now predominantly fishing, farming and food in the shape of Blue Cod!<br />
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This fish is a specialty of the region and we make the most of it.<br />
Our house sits on the top of a hill with commanding views. But the house is a relic of the 50s, complete with pink bathroom fittings, lurid carpet and no WIFI! But we cope and the library has free WIFI which we use every day.<br />
We take a trip to Nugget Point to see seals and penguins, but my camera dies on me and I'm stressed by the lack of a charger. It's so windy we are almost blown backwards by the lighthouse. The views are amazing, we spy many seals lolling around on the beach and a few chasing each other through the tumbling waves.<br />
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Even the trees are stressed by the windy conditions and cling by their fingernails to the rocky cliffs.<br />
An historic tunnel beckons but we are without torches (how inconvenient not to have our backpacks glued to our backs!) so we peer into the darkness - there is light at the end of the tunnel!<br />
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It is very sad that in NZ, as in Australia, the regional lines have been closed, except here freight still uses some lines. This would have been a scenic rail journey not to be missed.<br />
I get the distinct impression that I'm in Hobbit Central with the trees, the hills and the cows and sheep, although there are locals who think there are now too many cows in the area and the sheep are being pushed out. I must find another sheep souvenir to join my black sheep that Mopsy has tried to destroy.<br />
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Our next day trip is to Purakaunui Falls. These would be spectacular but because it hasn't rained for ten days, they are a sorry imitation of their normal glory.<br />
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The roads are all in excellent condition, not ruined by heavy haulage, but occasionally we hit gravel and the dry weather has made them very slippery - I nearly hit the ditch much to my surprise!<br />
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We drop into Lumberjacks Restaurant to make a dinner booking and stay chatting to a couple who have cycled from Auckland to Stewart Island (where we met them in the Backpackers), then up to Dunedin and home to Canada. They tell us to go to an extraordinary attraction called the Lost Gypsy at Papatowai. So we do. And boy oh boy is it odd. Blair Somerville, a would-be engineer, has cobbled together an amazing array of rustic automata in the world. Richard is in his element and even I am intrigued as I wander through the various displays. Blair's imagination knows no bounds.<br />
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Before we head into the restaurant, we spy the open door to a, as yet unopened, book shop. We call out to Tori, the owner, and ask if she would take pity on some bookless tourists! We walk in and browse the 1000s of books she has displayed, and spend 15 minutes chatting about which books are missing from my collection. We buy two heavy tomes (Katherine Mansfield's anthology and Marcus Clarke's For the Term of his Natural Life) that we may regret once we shoulder our backpacks again.<br />
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Dinner at Lumberjacks is superb - no photos sadly but we have booked for tomorrow night, our last night in the Catlins, so I'll take some photos then. I had to ask the waitress to correct the dessert menu - Eton mess doesn't have an a in Eton!! Can't help myself, sorry.<br />
As we sit watching Sky News, thunder claps disturb the air and the tv cuts out. We look outside and sure enough, dark clouds rumble across the hill top and dump a small amount of rain, which will only serve to lay the dust on the gravel roads and wash some of the dirt off our car.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-74713562359721549352017-11-30T13:11:00.002-08:002017-11-30T13:11:42.463-08:00Stewart Island - Rakiura Track 26 - 29 November<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Stewart Island (Rakiura) was first settled in the 13th century by Maori clans, who came to fish and hunt. It is the most southerly island of New Zealand and is quite a tourist mecca for kiwis (the feathered variety).<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’m not sad to leave Invercargill, for all its beautifully
old and neglected buildings. It is a town waiting to be discovered by the
tourist and the government for its potential, but currently it offers very little to encourage visitors to stay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We catch the ferry at 0930hrs from Bluff. Rakiura (Stewart
Island’s Maori name) dates Maori inhabitants since the 13<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century,
who hunted and fished there. There is thick cloud/fog all about us and the
Captain says he has to sound the foghorn every two minutes for the one hour
crossing of Foveaux Strait. I busy myself watching the radar scan for ships
crossing our path, backseat driving probably if I could put my foot on a pedal!
I can’t see any bearing down on our ferry and the fog clears immediately we
enter into Halfmoon Bay. Oban (the only ‘town’ of Stewart Island) has a
permanent population of 300, but tourists swell it considerably. The Stewart
Island Backpackers tells us that yesterday the management read the riot act to
guests who were drinking themselves into a stupor. Today it’s quiet. The hostel
is old, yes, but immaculately clean and comfortably cosy with lots of old sofas
in the lounge area, a large kitchen with plenty of fridges. I’d stay here again
if I ever came back to Stewart Island. It’s recently been taken on by new owners
and the daughter is the receptionist – she is very friendly and helpful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The island is used as a weather station, and this small globe shows the amount of daylight during the day by etching the data onto a paper strip. There's been no rain for over 10 days and the locals are concerned because they rely on rainwater for daily use.</span></div>
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This little church is perched on top of a hill - no date but it is well maintained.</div>
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Day break sees us up and backpacks ready. The Rakiura Track
is 32kms plus 6kms from Oban to Lee Bay, then an extra 2kms at the end, so we
will walk 40kms in three days. I can’t organise a taxi at this hour (8-ish) to
take us to Lee Bay, where we start the track, so we walk the 6kms to the start
of the track. The road is bitumen then onto a gravel road that follows several
pretty bays, one of which we walk along because it’s low tide, looking for
flotsam and jetsam, but the beach has only pipi shells and bits of giant kelp
washed up on the shoreline. We were warned by DOC that there was a seal
guarding the track’s starting point, but it isn’t there when we trudge by.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The telephone doesn't work, so we continue on our route!</div>
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The track is very different to the Routeburn. Although the
highest point is only 300m, we seem to climb up to that height every kilometre
or so, it’s like a switchback and I’m quickly tired of it. We reach Port
William Hut around 1pm and have lunch. The volunteer rangers are chatty and
fill us in on the goss – the kiwis have all disappeared this week, probably
because it’s very dry, there’s been no rain for 10 days, and they could be
searching for fresh water. The hut was full last night, with 20 rowdy Rotarians.
I’m glad we have a quieter bunch tonight. It’s not difficult to fall asleep but
fooling the sandflies is tricky because it’s too warm to get into the sleeping
bag, so my hands are exposed. <o:p></o:p></div>
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</span>Dawn breaks again and I’ve downed my porridge and tea in a
jiffy. Richard has to put up with no toast or marmalade – I think he’s hungry!
Today we head over the middle section (the track goes from east coast to west
coast inlet). We have been warned of the mud but because it hasn’t rained for
ten days, the rangers say it’s dry. They are correct to a point, but each muddy
section is still squishy and the track has few firm, dry places. I’m glad, very
glad, we’re not walking when it’s wet as the track would be a nightmare.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My photos are few today because the battery power has gone
on my camera and I didn’t bring my phone (of course, why would I when there is
no power!). Somehow, somewhere, the battery charger got left behind. I’m not at
fault of course!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We spend some time investigating the Johnston log haulers
that were left by the timber millers in the late 19<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century. How
those families coped with extreme isolation is beyond me. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were miles from the coast where the
logging mill operated, and built timber rail tracks for the bogies. </span></div>
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We pass 4 DOC workers on the track – they are trying to
repair the muddy sections (which I estimate comprise over 50% of the track) and
build new paths with deep ditches either side to capture the water run-off.
What a job. They look cheerful though and say they are in the midst of a
drought! <o:p></o:p></div>
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</span>It takes us 6 hours to walk 13kms, much of it pleasantly
undulating, but there are still hills to climb and valleys to descend into. The
scrubby forest offers no views as we pass by, it’s dense and filled with
straggly-limbed trees, a few ferns and some flax. Even the birds are scarce and
I’m bored with looking at my feet as I trudge up and down dale. North Arm Hut
looms into view and not before time. This is a typical muddy section - it doesn't do justice to the amount of mud, but imagine that it's at least ankle deep. There has been an effort to lay logs across the mud, but they just sink further in.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>There is no ranger at North Arm hut because the walking
(tramping) season doesn’t start until 1<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">st</span></sup> December. And there is no
washing up liquid, which is annoying as that is the last item I’d take on a
walk. But we enjoy talking to a German woman walking on her own and a mum and her daughter and partner who've been on a working holiday in NZ for a year (mum was invited to join them before the youngsters flew back to the US).</div>
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</span>Day 3 - North Arm Hut to Oban (11kms plus 2kms into town).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>The track guide promises me that today is downhill back to
Oban, but almost as soon as I leave the hut, we climb the first hill! However,
it doesn’t go to 300m so maybe things are looking up. I can’t complain about my
backpack, it is a joy to wear. We pass plenty of streams on the way, all
twinkling with mica (fool’s gold). Richard has to poke the water just to make
sure it’s not real gold! <o:p></o:p></div>
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</span>There is a steady descent at last, along what appears to be
a cobbled road. We think it must have been a logging road because it’s wide
enough for carts. I still haven’t seen a kiwi, nor a seal, but we do see lots
of tuis, who have the most amusing birdsong, and bellbirds, and many oyster
catchers (two were nesting on the beach as we passed into Port William, the
male flying within a hair’s breadth over my head in a clear warning not to go
closer).</div>
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Oban appears (we’ve done 13kms in 4.5 hours) and we slink
into the Backpackers and ask to buy a shower - $8 – to wash off three days of
sweat. It feels great to be clean again. The hotel beckons because they do the
most amazing Blue Cod and chips. We wash it down with Speight’s cider, what a
joy! There is no argument that freeze-dried food, e.g. Back Country, is filling
but it is disgustingly tasteless and next time we walk, I’m going to be more
inventive than rely on packaged freeze-dried food.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-35387407456103361522017-11-24T19:21:00.000-08:002017-11-24T19:21:03.887-08:00Bluff - a pleasant 1/2 hour drive from InvercargillInvercargill is renowned for its motor museum, which we didn't go to (memories of Beaulieu Motor Museum as a child and then York), and clearly there are those residents who love old cars:<br />
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Our Rav4 drives well and is economical too (petrol is about $NZ2.10/litre). We head to Bluff, the most southerly point of New Zealand. Settled in 1824 by one Captain William Stirling as a whaling station, it is now home to an aluminium smelter and a small fishing community. <br />
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We check the departure location for our ferry tomorrow and the security of the car park, then head up to the highest vantage point. The coves are rocky and thick with strands of giant kelp. People snorkel for clams and sea urchins. Cloud rolls in as I try to photograph Stewart Island, where the weather forecast for tomorrow is a low of 12 and a high of 13. Should be interesting but at least fine weather is predicted still.<br />
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Stewart Island is 30kms offshore, but it looks closer.<br />
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There are four shipwrecks off this coast - the pilot lived in this small building and turned on the pilot light each evening. It's no longer in use. There is a lighthouse further off the coast.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-26397228879695146862017-11-24T16:15:00.003-08:002017-11-24T16:15:40.101-08:00Invercargill redeems itselfAnother sunny day - what have we done to deserve this weather? It's laundry day and I head down to put on a load only to find someone's beaten me to it, so we head into town. Invercargill has not impressed me to date, but we are outside the Queens Park public gardens and Invercargill redeems itself with glorious rhododendrons:<br />
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And around the next corner I spy an enormous rose garden, with hundreds of rose bushes, from Floribundas to ramblers to climbers to standards, in every hue imaginable (but not my favourite Pierre de Ronsard)<br />
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And just a few fuschia bushes to photograph:<br />
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We have a coffee and slice of 'Hello Rosie' because it's hard work sniffing so many roses!<br />
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The beech trees are in full throttle, but here and there are some other plants I've not seen before, including a straggly Chile fuschia:<br />
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We head back to the motel for a lunch break before hitting the road for Bluff. More on that later.<br />
Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-65265452692729993812017-11-23T22:38:00.003-08:002017-11-23T22:41:23.367-08:00Invercargill and the farmlands region 24 NovemberIt may be rude, but I'm having difficulty finding something nice to say about Invercargill. Once upon a time it was a beautiful, bustling town (late 19th century I'm guessing, by the standard of the buildings). Now all I see are empty buildings in decay. Facades proudly display their earlier names, but rotting timbers, rusty roofing iron and tatty posters hanging off walls speak of a depressed economy. It rained overnight and there's a grey pall over the town. I look for photogenic buildings and find the Railway Hotel.<br />
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It's not easy finding somewhere to have a coffee either and we settle on Starbucks. Time to leave and drive down to the coast. The countryside changes to rich dairy and sheep farming, with rolling hills and snow-covered mountains as a backdrop. The renowned Kepler Track isn't far away!<br />
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Our destination is Riverton, on the coast about 45 minutes south west from Invercargill. It was a bustling port, then a whaling station and timber milling, but the silt built up in the river mouth and made passage for large ships impossible.<br />
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There seems to be just one café in town, inside the original post office. Lunch is mediocre and I miss yesterday's Bank Café!<br />
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We drive out and up the coast heading towards Te Anau. The snow covers the peaks and I can't believe we were there a few years ago on the Kepler. Across the ocean we see Stewart Island, our next destination to walk the Rakiura Track.<br />
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Colac Bay had some surfers waiting patiently - I suspect the townies have their bachs there but everything is still shut as summer is some distance away.<br />
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Along the route we see against the skyline cows heading to the milking shed. They are not certain they want to be photographed but the urge to relieve their load of milk overpowers trepidation!<br />
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After a much needed coffee stop in a lovingly cared-for house, we head to Gemstone Beach. Rich searches for gold of course, but I'm attracted to the beautiful driftwood.<br />
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It has been a pleasing route less travelled. As drinks time approaches, we head back to our motel and time to catch up on social media and some postcard writing!<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-23281819827185188212017-11-23T11:55:00.001-08:002017-11-23T11:55:23.274-08:00Queenstown to Invercargill via FruitlandsWe head to the airport for a 9am car pick-up. The airport is empty and so is the car hire desk, so we wait and I gather some brochures for Southlands. We have a brand new Rav4, which proves to be a lovely car but not as powerful as the Forester - I'm not tempted to buy one.<br />
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Our journey today will be long because we've chosen the scenic route, via Arrowtown where we stop for a much needed coffee and muffin break (it's been nearly 12 hours since we had a decent coffee!). This tiny town was settled in the mid 19th century, following others in the rush to find gold in the rivers. It's quaint, very touristy, and busy. We're lucky to find a parking spot easily because by 10am there are none left.<br />
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Cherries are in season as we head through the central Southlands towns, also known as Fruitlands, like Cromwell... to Invercargill.<br />
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The scene changes and becomes very craggy, rocky outcrops poke from the mountain sides and this is still LOTR country. It's barren and there are traces of snow on the peaks. We stop to look at Gore's new-ish hydroelectric station, built unwittingly on an earthquake fault line!!<br />
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We stop for a much needed lunch break in Clyde, another gold rush town now tuned to tourists needs. I might add that we aren't tourists, as Aussies we're honorary Kiwis! We settle for a delicious veggie stack and salad at the Bank Café.</div>
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As we descend towards sea level the farmland appears - sheep and dairy cows by the millions, everywhere we look another cow or sheep! They are fat and well-fed from the lush green grass.</div>
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A pit stop at Gore, country music capital of NZ and home to the Brown Trout!</div>
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Invercargill looms towards us as the clouds appear. It looks like it might rain here. We locate the hostel I booked months ago only to find they'd muddled up their guest nights and we are put outside the main house in what appears to be a lean-to. Tiny, wobbly double bed, lurid sheets and thin walls adjoin the toilet. It is not attractive and I determine to find a better place for three nights. The owner, Wally, says there's no cancellation fee, which is generous of him, so we hop back into the car and head to the main street looking for a motel.<br />
What a find! Asure Townsmen Motel has a superior room we can have but we check it out first to be certain. It's HUGE. A suite no less, all brand new, clean, comfortable, well kitted out kitchen. We hesitate briefly then head to reception to ask if we can stay 3 nights here. Donna grins and gives us the key. We need somewhere comfortable, it must be age :)<br />
Provisions are bought from Pak ''n Save, a vast warehouse supermarket and we note what to buy for our Stewart Island walk in a few days time. We also find a liquor shop and Rich buys a litre of brandy! It may be possible to take some on the track. My itches are a nightmare but maybe they'll be better in the morning after a good night's rest.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-40593243307201591372017-11-23T11:27:00.001-08:002017-11-23T11:55:44.463-08:00Routeburn Track 21 - 22 November<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Farewell Howden Hut - its lake has brown trout apparently but we only see fingerlings. This is the section where the Greenstone track starts from and several walkers march off briskly at the same time as us, but they have another four days of walking ahead of them.<br />
It's worth a mention about the age of the walkers because we are clearly not the youngest. But on Day 1 we chatted with a young Canadian girl walking the track and she asked, very politely, my age. I told her 64 (just) and she was amazed that anyone that old could be on such an active holiday. It made my day! I assured her that thinking about age was a mistake because it typecasts one. However, it's fair to say my calves and knees are not happy today, even getting downstairs to the kitchen hurts.<br />
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The last porridge for a few days! I had pre-mixed milk powder and a spoon of sugar into individual serves of oats so breakfast is quick and we're on the track before 8am. The mist clears rapidly off the lake and I nearly miss the photo op. It's a steep climb away from the hut and we consider climbing to the Summit Hill to see the confluence (supposedly) of three rivers (Hollyford, Routeburn and Eglington). My knees and calves say don't do it, even without a pack and we return to the main track. The views are still stunning no matter where you stand, snow capping all the peaks but none on the track. <br />
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This section of the Track is renowned for the native fuschia tree. I despair because we have walked for nearly an hour and none appear. Then suddenly we stop to listen for a strange, raucous bird call (it is a kea). I look up and see hundreds of tiny flowers, many spent, many still to appear, on what seems to be an Australian paper bark tree... I'm wrong of course, it is the native fuschia, with keas greedily eating all the flower heads for some small part, the rest cascading to the ground for us to walk over.<br />
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We reach The Divide and catch up with Michelle and Mitch, young walkers from Canada we've been chatting with along the way. They are heading for the Kepler, so we tell them to watch out for the kea on the top ridge!<br />
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Our transfer arrives on time, but we discover it'll take nearly four hours to reach Queenstown, which is disappointing. Oh well, a stop off at Mossburn for a venison pie makes amends and we're back at Lakeside YHA before we know it. Tonight we eat at Fishbone, an excellent fish restaurant. We indulge in squid salad followed by flounder (for me) and turbot for Richard. Richard then squeezes in another icecream from Patagonia but I resist. What a brilliant finale to our stay in Queenstown - we will be back.<br />
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<br />Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-77168703412284669252017-11-23T00:45:00.002-08:002017-11-23T10:59:07.789-08:00Routeburn Track 20 - 21 November Yesterday's vertical zig-zag climb to the hut is forgotten, as my body has refreshed itself overnight. Did I mention dinner? We were given 6 packets of freeze-dried dinners by some guests we had staying at The Shed before we left Bridgetown. I thought it would be great to have ready-dinners, but they are tasteless. We must do better for Stewart Island and gather tips and hints from other walkers.<br />
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There are still clumps (mounds?) of snow along the track - it would have been amazing to see the plateau completely covered in snow but the Track is closed in inclement weather, so we would have had to take the helicopter ride from the Falls hut to Lake Mackenzie hut. I'm glad we're walking. The air is so clear. A few trampers rush past us - they only see their bootcaps in their rush to get from A to B. I look back towards the cleavage in the mountain - the wind ruffles the tussock grass as I pass by.<br />
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The crows of Mordor evade us as we hide under these rocks. If only Frodo was here too, it would make my day. It is easy to spot Gollum lurking in the small streams or waterfalls that rush below us under steel bridges (which are removed over winter to stop trampers trying to cross the plateau).</div>
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I am enjoying the walk so much with my new backpack (No. 4 over nearly 40 years) and my newish boots (also No. 4 pair). The Aarn backpack has been designed by a Kiwi to fit a body perfectly. It moulds to the spine and the pack contents are distributed evenly between the main back pack and the two front 'boob' packs. I walk upright for the first time ever with a pack. It's bliss. Richard wishes he had one too (I did offer to buy one for him but he said his old one was fine - it isn't).<br />
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This lake marks the start of the Harris Saddle. We are almost at the peak.<br />
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We stop for lunch at the peak - there is a refuge hut (small, nothing inside but it would be ok if needed for an emergency) that is home to a kea, but we don't see it, only the poo it leaves on the little verandah. Some people ditch their packs and scamper up Conical Hill (a one hour return walk). We don't. I need some coffee and hot soup to get going again, but I think it's downhill from here to Lake Mackenzie. I ask Richard to try using the super-duper Aero Press coffee plunger and Rhino grounder I've brought all the way from Perth. It isn't a success, coffee grinds are large and we need more practise to get it drinkable.<br />
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The track winds downhill, edging back into the treeline again. So much tillandsia dripping from the trees. I can't photograph it all, but I'm tempted to try.<br />
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We knew day 2 would be a 6 hour tramp. We have been averaging under the max. time but only just! We have a long hike across several ridges, along narrow gullies, dipping in and out of trees and stopping for a breather at the top of the mountain to spy far below us Lake Mackenzie Hut, before a steep descent over gnarled tree roots, large boulders, fallen logs and more waterfalls amidst quite dark forests. Suddenly we emerge into daylight in front of Lake Mackenzie huts. The black sandflies are out in force here and stupidly I take off my boots. Thousands seem to latch onto me, biting any bit of flesh or clothing that takes their fancy. I sit outside and sketch, but eventually I'm driven indoors. We take bunks 1 & 2 again, maybe we're getting superstitious as those bunks are always available when we register in the logbook. <br />
We are amongst the first to arrive and select the larger bunkhouse, surreptitiously suggesting to the younger, rowdier walkers that there's a lovely smaller hut behind the main one, which they head for. We are in the trees, but close by is the luxury hut for the guided walkers. They have electricity and hot water.<br />
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Day 3 and we leave Lake Mackenzie hut by 8am and head for Howden Hut. It may only take us 4 hours today. I learn to readjust my 'boob' packs so that I don't carry too much on my back. It is such a pleasure to walk upright rather than stooped over. Even my feet don't complain!<br />
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The snow is not evident now - we are below 1000m - and the air is warm. I needn't have carried my thermals or wet weather gear. I haven't packed a change of clothes because there are no washing facilities except cold taps at any of the huts. Wet wipes suffice and a toothbrush! I must mention the Kiwi who stopped me yesterday and asked how I liked my Aarn backpack. He was an industrial designer and helped Aarn with the design! He runs the track in 4 hours and we met him again today, at a pit-stop loo, perched on the side of a hill. He explained he transfers cars from either end of the track, then runs back to collect another car. He's done the Track 4 times this week and barely raises a sweat. He says running is easier than walking with poles because by the time the rock underfoot has rolled in the wrong direction, his feet are already off it! I'll stick to walking with poles as we still have two weeks holiday left in NZ.</div>
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Our final pleasure for the day is reaching Earland Falls - what an amazing sight. The wind blows spume across the path and one tramper dons wet weather gear, but we brave it!<br />
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The track heads steadily downhill, and there's been quite a lot of track maintenance here, with washed away sections, trees that have been sawn to make easy passage and boulders moved to reform the path. The tree roots (Mountain Birch mainly) have a very flimsy hold - they seek purchase in rock crevices and grow to amazing sizes, but there is constant undermining of the roots from the water that comes from snowmelt. We pass so many fallen trees I stop looking at the red wood and don't think about the number of wood fires it would make!</div>
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Howden Hut appears after a long boardwalk. We are not the oldest at this hut, which I think is a pleasure! The youngsters have all, en masse, headed out to be picked up at the Divide or start the Greenstone or Caples track, which is a mere hour from Howden Hut. I must mention the mattresses. Each bunkhouse has either bunk beds in a neat foursome, or a long bed with multiple mattresses on it. We avoid those because it is very intimate, no space between mattresses and it reminds me of the POW's Hanoi Hilton 'beds'. Each mattress is covered in an industrial-strength plastic cover, which will easily outlast the mattress. I succumb to using two mattresses on top of each other at Howden so that the slats can't be felt when I lie on my side. The plastic is extremely noisy and hot. I wear ear plugs and an eye shield to help sleep, but with late arrivals banging the fire doors, it takes awhile to nod off.</div>
Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-1227997349322202932017-11-22T23:44:00.001-08:002017-11-22T23:45:13.308-08:00Routeburn Track 19 - 20 NovemberOur packs are loaded into the mini-bus and the driver, Ivan, chats away as we head towards Glenorchy. We will be walking the Routeburn in a southerly direction, because I looked at the map and it seemed to be mostly downhill in that direction!<br />
The weather is fine - there's a large high pressure system sitting on top of the South Island of New Zealand and sun is forecast for the foreseeable future. At least that means the Harris Saddle alpine pass will be open (damn, I fancied a helicopter ride for $95 even if it was only 5 minutes of flight over the snowy section).<br />
Routeburn Shelter is our drop off spot and we clamber out, adjust our packs (mine is a new Aarn featherlight pack - it's already proving to be wonderfully light and I think I'm carrying 8kgs in total) and our walking poles and head off across the first bridge.<br />
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The following photos are taken on the Track, heading towards Routeburn Falls hut where we spend our first night. We walk along mossy-banked paths, seeing few fellow walkers. It's quiet, shady and the only sounds are rushing waterfalls or occasional birds. Sadly the bird population has been depleted significantly by the stoats that were introduced in the late 19th century to control the rabbits. A massive failure of gargantuan proportions. But we see lots of small, rectangular wooden boxes along the way, filled with an egg and some raw mince - the stoats and rats are enticed in and killed instantly by a trap inside.</div>
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The track slopes very gently upwards - we hardly notice the incline and I'm lulled into a false sense of security.<br />
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We walk for about three hours, stopping for photos, snacks and just looking at the scenery as we pass by.<br />
A sign to Routeburn Flat Hut appears, alongside one pointing to Routeburn Falls Hut. We take the Falls track and suddenly we're climbing up a zig-zag path, just like the one on the first day of the Kepler Track. Oh no!<br />
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But with scenery like these falls we pass, I'm not complaining, nor are my legs. We reach the Routeburn Falls Hut around 3pm and select our bunks, register ourselves on the log book and look outside across the tree tops to where we've just walked up from.<br />
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The Hut is full - lots of visitors from North America, Asia and a smattering (us) from Australia. Not many Kiwis. <br />
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Day 2 - Routeburn Falls Hut, across Harris Saddle to Lake Mackenzie Hut<br />
I've slept well, so has Richard who had the bottom bunk. I chose the top because there was a window I kept open for fresh air. Breakfast (porridge and tea) dispatched, boots laced up and poles at the ready, we head off up the Track, with a very steep rise ahead of us. The Route Burn Falls are directly behind the hut.<br />
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I quickly remove my thermal jumper as the weather warms up as we climb. It's so beautiful here and once we reach the plateau, it's a pleasant stroll across to Harris Saddle (the alpine pass that was blocked with snow last week).<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-66829953387807298382017-11-17T20:24:00.003-08:002017-11-17T20:24:34.252-08:00Queenstown revisited - with 10,000 marathon runnersDay 1. Friday 17th November 2017<br />
Friday's breakfast is in the Qantas lounge - somehow Richard scored two free passes courtesy of Westpac, so we help ourselves to the brekky bar! We are late-ish leaving Sydney - probably because the plane is full.<br />
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It seems Queenstown is a mecca for marathon runners this weekend and the plane heaves with lithe bodies. The taxi driver wends his way through hundreds of vehicles, roads clogged by the influx of runners from NZ and overseas, maneuvering themselves to their accommodation for the night. We didn't know we'd picked the busiest weekend of the summer when we booked in June! Even the YHA Lakeside is overwhelmed with guests and we share with two from Asia who keep a different time schedule to us. But after a full refurb, this YHA is bright, clean and comfortable. We are right on the water's edge and listen to the hum of speed boats zipping passengers across the water.<br />
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We mosey into town and get food provisions for this first walk. I miss green veg. already but this time we carry an absolute minimum and no fruit cake! Next stop sees Rich sporting new thongs, sunnies, and walking poles. Kathmandu has a sale on so of course I buy some new tops. We eat our first icecream - why can't Australia offer the same vast choice of flavours?<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-81982512408466464262016-08-22T10:42:00.001-07:002016-08-22T10:42:33.764-07:00The Old City of LyonIt's (gently) pouring with rain - cooler today too and we need jumpers. The beautiful Mont Blanc is covered with cloud - not a good sight if you are camping on the upper slopes. Many climbers spend up to three days camped on the Aiguille du Midi, waiting for conditions to be favourable, but they won't be going anywhere today.<br />
We don't farewell my sister and b-in-law and their son - they sneak out of the apartment so quietly for their very early easyJet flight, we are still asleep. <br />
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It's a short walk to the train station from our apartment. Its location borders both old and new Chamonix and although the rooms are small, I have no complaints about it except maybe a tree that blocks an almost perfect view of Mont Blanc. A full train. Somehow we slither into seats together. We stop at St Gervais for a few minutes to change trains, luckily it's the same platform, as our backpacks seem to be heavier. Another 'milk train' stopping all stations, before Annecy appears through the rain. We have almost two hours to kill here and eat our lunch on a platform seat. We find our train about half an hour before it departs but it is already full, this time with boy scouts and girl guides. It must be the end of the French school holidays because there are children everywhere. We climb the stairs to the upper carriage and have wonderful views of fields of maize, and sunflowers whose heads are bowed with the weight of their maturing seeds.<br />
There are no services on board the trains, so I'm glad we brought at least water with us.<br />
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Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu is about two kilometres from our hotel, the Mercure Beaux Arts, which is in the centre of the old city. Our taxi driver rushes there, zigzagging between cars and buses, making me cling to the seat edge for support. What a surprise, our privilege room is enormous (for a Mercure hotel) and well worth $160/night (but meals aren't included).<br />
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We spend the evening wandering through the old quarter of Lyon, a mass of tiny streets crammed with restaurants. We choose one at random because it has a French menu (many don't). Named The Winch, it doesn't sound French but the food is beyond delicious - we both have duck with fresh cranberries, followed by real crème brulee. Fixed menu for EUR26pp for three courses. I eat so quickly I forget to take photos.<br />
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Morning comes with sunny skies and we go out to find breakfast. There's a fresh fruit and veg market along the Saone river bank, so we munch on brioche and croissant. I drink freshly pressed orange and peach juice. The fruit is so enticing, if only we had more time to eat it!<br />
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Early morning walks reveal the best lighting for photography - and the city is quiet<br />
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We wander over the river Saone to find an artists' market and buy two paintings. I worry about bringing in wooden frames and select two that need to be framed. They are modern and very French.<br />
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At the top of the hill overlooking the old city is the Cathedral de Notre Dame. Mass is being said so we wait respectfully for it to finish. The wait is more than worthwhile. There's a heady mix of incense lingering in the air as the massive doors are swung open at the end of the service.<br />
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There's an enormous Roman amphitheatre close by, so we wander down the hill before taking the funicular train back into the old quarter.</div>
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Richard finds the statue to the author Antoine St Exupéry, who wrote The Little Prince at the turn of the last century - it's delightfully whimsical<br />
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And so farewell to Europe - it has been a wonderful holiday. I am cured of wanting a campervan to travel in (too cramped), realise that remote walking is more enjoyable than touristic, chic locations, and can't wait to take out my walking poles and boots for another walking holiday in England and Europe.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-64257978731247439112016-08-19T09:03:00.002-07:002016-08-19T09:08:00.110-07:00Our last day in Chamonix The rain has passed overnight and we wake to a clear, sunny sky so loved by the paragliders.<br />
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Today we use our free bus/train passes to travel up the Chamonix Valley to Vallorcine. The passes were given to us on the first day, and are used to encourage every one to leave their cars at home or in the car parks rather than clog up the narrow roads to/from Chamonix. As we walk to the bus stop, we pass the patisserie - I make a mental note to call in on our return!</div>
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Somehow, the boulangerie isn't as attractive!<br />
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The bus is already loaded up with cyclists and their mountain bikes and we slither into a space at the rear adjacent to the bikes. At Le Tour, just beyond Argentiere, a special mountain bike track was built in 2014 and these guys are clearly dressed for the downhill experience - the bikes don't need pedals but they do need very good brakes. The scenery changes as we climb higher, more plateau and meadowland than Chamonix because it hasn't been built on. I can imagine how Chamonix once looked and wish I had visited a long time ago.<br />
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When the bus stops, we're only 2.3 kms from Switzerland (Martigny), so it is possible to travel from Italy, through France to Switzerland in a matter of hours by train. There are no cafes in Vallorcine, so we hop on the train back to Argentiere and find an excellent lunch café, Le Grenier. I have a delicious crepe filled with spinach and mushrooms - you only get a picture of the last mouthful because I forget to snap it before I tuck in!</div>
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The train departs Argentiere with us on board - it's clean, and definitely on time. Tomorrow we travel for 5 hours by train from Chamonix to Lyon - I expect it will be as good as this local train</div>
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We've missed the wildflowers, which are at their best earlier in the summer. But I spot some Flanders poppies, so bright and chirpy <br />
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The cornflowers attract some visitors too.</div>
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I'm intrigued by a woman sitting plucking stems from these chanterelle mushrooms - they'd be delicious in an omelette<br />
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And so back to Chamonix for the last evening - a quick stop to replenish stores in the local supermarket include a very nice Chablis. We have been spoilt for choice in wines. And not to forget the patisserie - after all it is our last night in Chamonix!</div>
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And I must add that Richard and I shared this tarte des fruits with my sister and her family, we didn't eat it all!</div>
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<br />Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-69261932308252279502016-08-18T09:52:00.001-07:002016-08-18T09:52:33.765-07:00Le Glacier du Bosson or climb to Buvette de la Cascade du DardIt's raining - a perfect day for another hike into the mountains. Today we choose a three hour hike to see close up the Glacier du Bosson, which runs almost parallel to the cable car to Mont Blanc. It's wonderful climbing up through the woods.<br />
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What a wonderful surprise to walk into a clearing and find the most delightful café Le Buvette de la Cascade du Dard, hidden amongst the trees - Little Red Riding Hood would have been comfortable there!<br />
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Lunch is a fondue - made correctly with a white wine sauce and emmental cheese melted in it. Yum.</div>
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Once upon a time (late 19th century) the glacier came down to Chamonix. Now it's less than halfway down the mountain and steadily receding. </div>
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A little higher up the climb, we come across another café - this one displays an old photo of men from the last century sitting opposite the glacier. Next to them, pinned to the rock, is some debris from a crashed Boeing 707 that crashed in 1966 but only found this year.</div>
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The local Alpine Museum in Chamonix is worth a visit - I see skis I used in 1963 and then those used in the mid-70s. How old am I? It's time for a cuppa.</div>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-19336481091951032692016-08-18T09:26:00.001-07:002016-08-18T09:26:31.905-07:00A day trip to Aosta, the sunny side of Mont BlancToday seems a good day to take a bus to Aosta. It's sunny and our legs need a rest from the hike to Le Lac Blanc. We pile into a coach to travel through the Mont Blanc tunnel (built between 1957 and 1965) to Courmayeur. Entering the tunnel is strictly regulated and we wait our turn to enter.<br />
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Emerging into bright sunshine on the Italian side, I'm disappointed no one wants to check or stamp our passports. I argue with the cleaner in the toilets who refuses to let me in! Gesticulating and talking loudly in English helps and calm is restored.<br />
We buy another ticket to Aosta and hop on the second bus. The road passes interesting villages with extraordinary slate tiled roofs - it is a regional tradition.<br />
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We reach Aosta and wander around - it is remarkable for its Roman ruins<br />
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The Cathedral beckons after lunch in a bar - delicious cheese and ham baguettes, followed closely by a hazelnut icecream. Australia doesn't know how to make good icecream I've decided.</div>
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We return back the same way. This time I'm watching the mountain slopes and notice the steep terraces - some for grape vines but some have fallen into disrepair. I'm not surprised - it really is very steep.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-39595949309734777542016-08-16T08:23:00.000-07:002016-08-16T09:01:50.730-07:00Le Lac Blanc<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Tuesday. The weather forecast for the morning is good, a top of 27, with the possibility of a late afternoon thunderstorm. A good day for a hike.<br />
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We decide on Le Lac Blanc, the only glacial lake in the range. This is accessible via Les Praz, a village about 3km further along the valley from Chamonix. Walking along the river under the trees is a shady retreat from the sun. The river is fed by glacial melt and is swiftly flowing. Before long we are in Les Praz, a much quieter village than bustling Chamonix and this would be a good place to stay if you don't like crowds. From Les Praz a cable car takes us to Flegere at 2000m. Someone inside the car has had garlic for breakfast. None too soon we commence our walk.<br />
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The trail is a busy one and very steep in parts. It is a case of watching one's feet on the rocky path. But when you pause and look up the views are magnificent. We are on the opposite side of the valley to the Aiguille du Midi, where we were yesterday.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The barely visible Argentiere glacier has retreated significantly over the past twenty years. It used to occupy this rocky valley</span>.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Richard taking in the view</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our objective - Lac Blanc</span> </td></tr>
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3/4 of the way up (and after three hours of walking), we admit our hips/knees/ankles aren't accustomed to the scrambling involved over the large rocks. We decide to beat a retreat to the cable car area at Flegere. The café offers a welcome sandwich, baguette, coffee and tart. A group of American walkers settle at an adjacent table and order beers. When it arrives they raise their <br />
glasses and heartily toast to a great reward for a great effort. Here here!<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-58533347903933617982016-08-15T12:39:00.000-07:002016-08-15T12:39:01.857-07:00Aiguille du Midi - glaciers, crampons and hard slogToday it's bright and sunny, a few wispy clouds dotting the sky and almost no wind. It's ideal for a ride on the Freek (Telepherique cable car) up to Aiguille du Midi at 3842m.<br />
We score a cable car at 0930hrs - an organised sardine tin style of travel.<br />
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The views are amazing as we climb steeply up the mountainside, past the Glacier des Bossons (a retreating glacier almost certainly caused by global warming) towards Mont Blanc the real 'top of Europe' in the eyes of the French!<br />
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The cable car screeches up the final vertical section and we spy climbers getting ready below. It is the Mecca for climbers apparently.</div>
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We pile out of the cable car onto a magnificent feat of engineering commenced in 1951 - the platform is enormous and every part of the edifice was brought up by workers who initially had to climb up to commence the building. At 3842m that's quite a task.<br />
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Our goal of being near to Mont Blanc approaches - the curved dome looks enticing as it stands starkly against the deep blue sky</div>
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Our final stop is at the pinnacle of Pointe Helbronner, 3777m right on the French/Italian border. </div>
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We could continue to Courmeyer, an Italian ski resort but leave it for another day. The views are breathtaking of this unbelievable scenery. </div>
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We've spent a few hours up here and our ticket says we must depart by 1300hrs, so we are packed back into the sardine tin for our descent, passing over enormous glaciers and cervices.</div>
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As we descend, the cloud tries to cover Mont Blanc but not before we sneak one last glimpse of this impressive mountain</div>
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The day finishes in the town square with a pint of lager and half-an-hour of people watching.</div>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-90762967567384869482016-08-14T12:12:00.000-07:002016-08-14T12:19:38.112-07:00ChamonixGetting to Chamonix is easy - easyJet left almost on time and the flight took just 1 1/2 hrs. The rule with low cost carriers is to be prepared - book speedy boarding and you can be assured of having overhead cabin luggage space. Leave it to pot luck and the overhead lockers will be full before you've even boarded the plane. But the flight was smooth and I'd fly with them again.<br />
Geneva Airport - not quite as efficient as easyJet! But we got our luggage and found the Irish driver for the Cham Express transfer and off we went through winding roads up into the mountain, dropping off passengers as we climbed through the forests to Chamonix - chic climbing gear, walking poles, expensive boots and the most amazing scenery underneath Mont Blanc.<br />
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Downtown Chamonix - glacial water courses through the flowers</div>
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Mont Blanc in all it's glory - our view from the apartment balcony</div>
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After a day's travel getting to Chamonix, it's time for some adventure! Looking out from our balcony this morning, the paragliders were drifting silently above us, colourful birds of prey them seem. But I've never been airborne before under wind power and it's time to take the plunge. Richard comes too - he's parachuted near York, so this is tame for him!</div>
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I glide above Chamonix for about ten minutes but it seems longer. My heartbeat finally settles and I enjoy the magnificent views of the glaciers and Mont Blanc. I can hardly believe I'm soaring in the thermals like birds - some paragliders stay up for 8 hours or longer, depending on the wind conditions. We land gently on the grassy field and I immediately fall backwards like a stranded whale! What an inglorious end to a marvelous experience.</div>
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We finish the day with an organ recital in the local church - a wonderful end to an exciting day</div>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-898172181536933292016-08-12T06:51:00.001-07:002016-08-12T06:51:54.183-07:00Wildlife along the way<div style="text-align: justify;">
Much of our blog has been about greenery, architecture and food - what a wonderful combination! But it's timely now to look at the wildlife we have also seen along the way.</div>
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Firstly in Cumbria - this is an area of wild natural beauty, open moorlands and steep craggy hills, verging on mountains (although I'm not sure when a hill turns into a mountain). Herdwick sheep are everywhere and the ewes have all been shorn.</div>
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Then we were lucky enough to see a selection of Welsh sheep, some rare breeds and a Welsh Black cow, all roaming freely on the heathlands.</div>
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Adult Herdwick ewe</div>
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Chubby not-so-little Herdwick lamb</div>
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Wisely these two Herdwick ewes were sheltering out of the wet and windy weather - we kept on walking!</div>
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Swaledale (Yorkshire) sheep - used for meat and wool</div>
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Brecknock Hill Cheviot sheep which originated in the Cheviot Hills around 1372, used for wool (tweeds) and meat, thriving in wild and blustery heathlands.</div>
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Rare breed - Balwen Welsh Mountain sheep used for wool and meat</div>
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Welsh Black cow (I think, the flowers hid the important bits!). Wales' only native cattle used for meat and milk and extremely hardy. This one was up on the heathland in mid Wales.</div>
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We saw little wildlife like badgers and hedgehogs except as roadkill, but I did see a green snake (non-venomous) near our campsite in Cynwyd, Wales.</div>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-74005093281488227402016-08-11T13:32:00.000-07:002016-08-11T13:32:16.554-07:00Highclere aka Downton AbbeyMary and I are devoted fans of Downton Abbey - in real life Highclere Castle, an estate near Newbury, Berkshire. The website says visits are booked out for the entire month of August but a small number of tickets are held for walk-ins. We chance it.<br />
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Not only do we get in with no problem but a chat to Bert at the carpark entrance - he has worked there for 27 years - reveals that it is a quiet day. How come it says booked out we ask? Ahh, he says, to stop the hordes inundating the place.<br />
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We take a tour inside (no photography allowed) The rooms are exactly like you see in Downton Abbey, though they seem a little smaller. You can get close to all the furniture though you can't sit on anything. Some of it is fragile. The library, drawing room and dining room feature large photographs of the actors to bring it into context. You expect Carson to walk down the corridor at any moment.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-87132606460566653912016-08-11T13:05:00.000-07:002016-08-11T13:05:05.773-07:00Life on a bargeToday is a break from walking. About 35 minutes drive from Tintern into Gloucestershire is a junction of the Gloucester and Sharpness canal at Saul. We meet friends Gillian and John who, over the years, have travelled the length and breadth of the extensive canal network of Britain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swing bridge to allow a passing barge</td></tr>
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We walk to a nearby pub frequented by boaters and renowned for its famous pies.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quaint rural cottage along the way</td></tr>
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The Three Horsehoes pub at Saul. Pies to die for. And enormous! We all agree the best tasting ever. A true find.</div>
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We would like to try a canal boating holiday at some stage. It is a very tranquil way of seeing the countryside.<br />
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-49294217502712998612016-08-11T12:36:00.000-07:002016-08-11T12:36:22.031-07:00Through central Wales to the Wye valley<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Before we leave North Wales we check out the Pontcysyllte aqueduct near Llangollen. Barges cross at a height of 39m above the river - not for the fainthearted.<br />
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From Llangollen we make our way down through central Wales across Dolfor moors. The number of cars on the road dwindles to one every 10 minutes.<br />
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Finally we arrive in the Wye valley, back near Tintern.<br />
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The following morning we head off for a walk through Cassell Woods to Tintern abbey<br />
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The ruins of a church on the opposite hill catches our eye.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of a wealthy Tintern merchant - died 1743</td></tr>
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On the Wye river a mill wheel reminds us of earlier eras of grinding corn, spinning wool and working iron. The mill still turns but no longer for any productive purpose.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious</td></tr>
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After lunch we take a walk through the nearby forest along paths once trod by monks travelling between abbeys. Ancient walls line the way.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thistle flower not yet in full glory</td></tr>
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A long walk today. The forest has many paths, not all mapped. <br />
Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-39149647383372258672016-08-07T06:30:00.001-07:002016-08-07T06:30:31.849-07:00Snowdonia and the Dee valley<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_kQe1gjFoHhPnZqspVt42B2of5hTUFsRW1jvremfWxCxN3z1rpgNowPMPO8kMDt64goyBDfwVq6LFbhHX3GXcLuj48_7cEJiN7sM6x5BmoLesEkJePem6K-LyzHHEB4E-mGNuyfD03k_/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_kQe1gjFoHhPnZqspVt42B2of5hTUFsRW1jvremfWxCxN3z1rpgNowPMPO8kMDt64goyBDfwVq6LFbhHX3GXcLuj48_7cEJiN7sM6x5BmoLesEkJePem6K-LyzHHEB4E-mGNuyfD03k_/s640/010.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was the day for climbing Mt Snowden which is situated
in the north-west of Wales as part of Snowdonia national park. It is Britain’s
highest mountain. We should have been more prepared. It was sunny, a weekend
and the school holidays. The number of people was overwhelming: car parks full,
climbers everywhere. As a last resort we think of taking the train to the top
(yes, there is an easy option) but even that was booked out until late
afternoon. Go to Plan B – Caernarfon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caenarfon Castle</td></tr>
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Wonderful. No crowds at Caernarfon - at least not at 10am. The well-preserved castle has a museum dedicated to the history of the Royal Welch Fusiliers. The old town outside the castle walls is a quaint crisscross of narrow streets and interesting little shops and cafes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowdonia national park</td></tr>
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We drive from Caernarfon through Snowdonia national park. The road passes through heathland with stunning views.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWi-wwRpn_jNw7-Hb8xWv1XTO_JaEHq33PmfVVorszqxmNIoICQazvr6Q9D0WdeloQFF_qEKbe5mWaHqHqeeg781msZppsw9eKTRSZNhh7DKxWZmPpG8UzkGz4jMtyxt1tIcsGA69Dqmke/s1600/057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWi-wwRpn_jNw7-Hb8xWv1XTO_JaEHq33PmfVVorszqxmNIoICQazvr6Q9D0WdeloQFF_qEKbe5mWaHqHqeeg781msZppsw9eKTRSZNhh7DKxWZmPpG8UzkGz4jMtyxt1tIcsGA69Dqmke/s400/057.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruins of Valle Crucis abbey (built 13th century) near Llangollen</td></tr>
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The next day we walk a circuit closer to Llangollen taking in views of the Dee valley. The day starts cloudy but is soon sunny. Every scene is picture postcard perfect.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horseshoe Falls, Llansyllio</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Dee valley near Llangollen</td></tr>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-1010766526114437632016-08-05T12:07:00.002-07:002016-08-05T12:07:36.717-07:00On to North Wales<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAT_ntmHKuFTFEP-u0Wr3rP9wPHQlbmWLRhQ-xi0H39gaTghLhqBnhsMez7ZozT67uxRB1GLNqj1E07AkfpqinToC7L7FB2JtAq4zxC0Cqzy_0iEzYV8dHGBQ3su2gIa_s0pxzyOChZs7b/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAT_ntmHKuFTFEP-u0Wr3rP9wPHQlbmWLRhQ-xi0H39gaTghLhqBnhsMez7ZozT67uxRB1GLNqj1E07AkfpqinToC7L7FB2JtAq4zxC0Cqzy_0iEzYV8dHGBQ3su2gIa_s0pxzyOChZs7b/s640/025.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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After a few days interrupted by rain we have just started walking again. But first - getting there. Our journey takes us via the New Forest, past Stonehenge and the ruins of Tintern Abbey.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5kWfkjrj_vEUGNDVRDrHrXYkow8Utm7xGB4xv4F486UTazY56qzf3CqZnLT3YEUSjGf6pKFWz3DMhGrp2uBzLwY_DWtycFIAGzPUsSV7FipUJb3mOllSSCt5kF1KjPHgcsaI7dxx6sho/s1600/Langollen+to+Corwen+005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5kWfkjrj_vEUGNDVRDrHrXYkow8Utm7xGB4xv4F486UTazY56qzf3CqZnLT3YEUSjGf6pKFWz3DMhGrp2uBzLwY_DWtycFIAGzPUsSV7FipUJb3mOllSSCt5kF1KjPHgcsaI7dxx6sho/s320/Langollen+to+Corwen+005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oggies anyone?</td></tr>
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The Llangollen Railway runs a steam train to nearby Corwen in North Wales. The journey is 25 minutes through the lovely Dee valley.<br />
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JMW Turner painted the above idyllic landscape near Corwen</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkVmx6vWXWiCGts9nYrGR2Me79NXRJtjkqA3hYSBzkMapCRjlrWZlN2qTA9MsGWASTD-LjPHScOt9WhbEOsGuSpOaAuPQg4DvV3B2AiaVS9KH-TU2JAINOeN4pznCHUT3cRLsqxj_vop66/s1600/Langollen+to+Corwen+036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkVmx6vWXWiCGts9nYrGR2Me79NXRJtjkqA3hYSBzkMapCRjlrWZlN2qTA9MsGWASTD-LjPHScOt9WhbEOsGuSpOaAuPQg4DvV3B2AiaVS9KH-TU2JAINOeN4pznCHUT3cRLsqxj_vop66/s320/Langollen+to+Corwen+036.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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We walk from Corwen to the Cynwyd along a disused railway line. The service was discontinued in 1964. Welsh slate is used to border fields and make sturdy fence posts.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llangollen</td></tr>
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<br />Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-939564016420880886.post-69509955808466900992016-07-31T23:36:00.000-07:002016-08-07T06:31:55.602-07:00Chartwell - the home of Winston Churchill<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The grounds of Chartwell</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We travel to Kent today on a high speed train from Penrith (Cumbria) to London Euston and then on the slow rattler to Hurst Green in Surrey. Generally the train service has been excellent and the fact that we can cover almost the entire length of England in a couple of hours is amazing. We copy the locals and buy food on the station platforms and not in the train 'shop', which is typical rail food and has probably been languishing on their shelves for many years! Our destination is Westerham in Kent, home to General James Wolfe (a British army officer renowned for defeating the French and saving Quebec in Canada during the Seven Years War. Clearly the British expansion into Canada failed in Quebec, which is now proudly a Canadian French quarter! Chartwell, the home of Sir Winston Churchill, British Prime Minister during WW2, is nearby. We discover a lovely walk (3 kms), maintained by the National Trust, from Westerham through the beech woods to the house and gardens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Walking means we can justify eating cream teas at our destination!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The home of Sir Winston and Lady Clementine Churchill is preserved as it was in the 1930s and is filled with their memorabilia, original furniture and some highly amusing letters written by Churchill to his minions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Maintenance work is underway to replace leaking windows and make the building watertight.</span> </div>
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From that to this?</h3>
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This is Churchill's contemplative pond - many of his paintings and writings were dreamed up here</h3>
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The kitchen gardens</h3>
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One of many herbaceous borders</h3>
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Richard@Mondohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02818762593382705531noreply@blogger.com0